Easter in Venice – Gondoliers, Masks and Glass

Venice has to be one of the most amazing cities in the world. I fell completely in love with it; its beautiful buildings with their dirty and dilapidated but fascinating frontages. The sneaky, sly alleyways that lead you on magical, mystical walking adventures past cheap, tawdry souvenir shops and chic, sumptuous fashonista boutiques, tatty chapels and hole in the wall hostelries.

Caitlin and I travelled to Venice by train arriving in the early afternoon. Crossing the first of many bridges – Ponte degli Scalzi (Bridge of the Barefoot) we picked up the keys to our accommodation. After purchasing our ‘Venice cards’ (seven days unlimited travel on the vaporetto or water buses) we made our way along the full length of the Grand Canal to our mini-apartment across from St Mark’s Square. Dumping our bags we headed straight back out to ‘get lost’. We began this ‘get lost’ journey with a trip back along the Grand Canal to the famous Rialto Bridge. Refusing to consult a map we wandered... meandered... and mooched along little lanes, ducking into tiny shops, admiring amazing masks, for hours. Finally as hunger took hold we selected a restaurant close to the canal and had our first Venetian meal.

With stomachs satisfied but curiosity still unsated we weren’t yet ready to quit for the day. So not to be beaten by the coming chill of evening we bought scarves at a nearby stall and continued our adventure. Accidently discovering St Mark’s Square we made a quick left turn and buried ourselves in further exploration until wearily we made our way home.

The next day we followed a similar pattern with our only plan involving meeting Barry at the train station at 2pm. This gave us time to visit many mesmerizing mask makers in the search for a suitable addition to Caitlin’s stilt costume. What artistry we were distracted by! With minutes to spare we made to the station and greeted the celebrating sportsman. Barry had remained in Varese for a night to attend his Karate grading. He surprised himself by being achieving 2nd kyu rather than the 3rd kyu he had expected – only two steps to black belt now.

A vaporetto ride along the canal was the first tick in the visitor’s box for Barry and then, after ditching his bags, together we went to explore St Mark’s Square. Galileo tried out his telescope here in this very campanile (all right – not this bell tower exactly – an earlier one – but you know what I mean). The history of the place is overwhelming. What can one say that hasn’t been said before?

Barry and Caitlin in St Mark's Square (bright teal scarf)

A brief stop for a cocktail at the brand newly opened Hard Rock Cafe then off for the quintessential Venice experience – a gondola ride. From our gondola we saw a wedding party, and a fashion shoot. But those canals are REALLY narrow and when one gondola meets another gondola and a water taxi gets in the way – well – the language gets a little expressive!

Above: Barry and Fiona with gondalier

Below: Caitlin in the gondola with Rialto Bridge in sight

It was food time again so we sauntered back to the Grand Canal for dinner before strolling home and falling fast asleep. Next day we spent several hours viewing the Peggy Guggenheim collection. WOW for me but somewhat trying on the patience for Barry and Caitlin. The afternoon was dedicated to all things artistically glass with a ride out to the beautifully kept island of Murano. Lunch in a little courtyard down a very dark alley turned out to be a surprisingly good choice. The glass factories and shops varied in quality from outright tacky to exquisitely superb. We were enthralled with one particular piece but at a (heavily discounted) price of 4,000 euro we left it for someone else to enjoy.

Huge public glass works of art on Murano

Our final full day in Venice was devoted to the Doge’s Palace. We hired audio-guides and spent hours traipsing through room after extraordinary room. The workmanship, the fine detail in the carvings and paintings, the scale of the spaces, the sense of history was just too much and with several rooms still to go we abandoned the campaign in search of somewhere to sit quietly and observe the world in passing. A little more shopping as we strolled added to both Caitlin’s extensive tartan wardrobe and her hat collection. Dinner was taken at a waterside restaurant on the southern side of the Dorsoduro area looking towards La Guidecca.

The last morning was a rush. Barry wakened and crept carefully to the bathroom, checking his watch he discovered it was 9.55am – we had to be packed, kitchen cleaned and out the door by 10.30! Organised panic ensued and right on the button we were ready to go – passing the maid on the stairs. A gentle boat ride the long way round the island took us back to the transit end of Venice to return the apartment key. After a leisurely lunch we were back to the train station and home to Varese, with many happy memories of an amazing holiday.

I went to Venice and all I got was...

... this crumby illness requiring intramuscular injections of antibiotics everyday for the next 6 days - bronchial pneumonia.

Okay that wasn't ALL I got; but the rest of the story will have to wait for another posting when I am feeling less yuck

Alan's away! - AND Qantass are plonkers

Thought I'd let you know that Alan finally got away this evening although it was touch and go there for a while. It turns out that Qantass are complete plonkers.

We were all set to go to the airport as a family to wave the boy off. Barry was flying to Sweden about two hours before Alan's flight so it fitted that we all head out together - but! Then one of Barry's work boys couldn't fly so that creaed an issue with work cars. In the end Wayne picked up Barry and Doc and took them to the airport early. Caitlin was too sick to come to the airport so Mother and Son headed off alone...

We made it to the airport safely and then tried to head through to check-in for the first leg of the flight with British Airways to Heathrow. Gran and Anna will remember that this is in a separate part of the airport - usually guarded by young guys with sub-machine guns. The rules at Malpensa have changed again - and now only passengers can go through to check-in at BA... Poor Alan had to go through alone... and then the clever mother remembered that we had forgotten to 'security wrap' his suitcase. This is where they run the suitace through a miniature bailing machine and strangle it with giant, florescent yellow gladwrap. I rang the lad and back he came - past the guns... We get the bag safely gladwrapped and back he goes past the hired guns again... only to reappear 15 minutes later, still with the suitcase. You've guessed by now that this is not going well...

Although Alan's ticket was booked (using Gran's airpoints) and the taxes etc paid for (by Mum and Dad) Qantas 'forgot' to charge the credit card... this mean't that they didn't 'issue' a ticket. They DID email confirmation of the booking, they DID telephone to advise of a change in departure times for the return flight, we DID find and check the booking online and NOWHERE and at NO TIME was there any mention of an issue - Until he tried to check-in...

We raced through Malpensa airport to the BA ticket counter where they had "Lee" from Qantass on the phone for us. He was sorry that the booking had 'slipped through the cracks'. However, he needed the taxes to be paid so that he could issue the tickets... No, cash was no good. A credit card was the only way. Problem. Our NZ credit card was compromised a few weeks ago - and the bank suspended it. New cards are on their way but have yet to arrive. Our Italian credit card was in Barry's wallet and you'll remember that he was somewhere in the air already - on his way to Sweden... Thankfully I had a copy of the card details at home so a quick phone call home to Caitlin and she was able to supply the number... Lee put us on hold whilst he went off to get this all sorted from his end... the time was ticking... there was now less than an hour until takeoff and check in closes 60 minutes before the departure time... (picking up on my stress levels rising here?)... Finally Lee came back on the line and assured us it was all go...

No, of course that is not the end of the story...

Alan goes back through to check-in at BA... for the third time - the hired guns don't even ask to see his passpor this time. Out he comes - boarding pass in hand. Yahoo! All is well - Or is it???

No!

Alan only has a boarding pass to Heathrow... NOT for his onward flight on Qantass to Sydney and Wellington... Back we go to the BA counter... Assurances all round. It will be fine. They are still working on the Qantass flight but the bags are definitely checked al the way through... He just has to go to the Qantass departure Gate and there will be his boarding pass waiting for him...

I get home to find an email from Qantass - the Plonkers - with the e-ticket details for Alan. I forward these to his email address and - for good measure - text the e-ticket number to his mobile. This turned out to be a very good plan as when he arrived at the Qantass departure gate in Heathrow - you'll never guess - they didn't have any boarding pass for him - or any idea about one. After running through the whole sorry tale... and giving them the e-ticket number they finally issued the boarding passes for the rest of the trip....

Will Alan get to board the flight to Sydney?
Will his luggage make it to Wellignton with him??
Will Qantass reply to the complaints email sent to them by Alan's very annoyed mother???

Stay tuned for more exciting updates!

Grieving - and moving on

I seem to have spent a lot of time in Italy grieving.

I've been grieving for me because of the loss of a job that I loved. It was important to me to get something back from my job, something for my heart and spirit - not just for my bank account. Working in a Montessori high school offered me that in spades.

I've been grieving for my kids. I took them away from their friends. I took them away from the Montessori learning environment that was so important to them.

I've been grieving for the Athena community. With the closure of the school I feel like part of my heart has been ripped out and I worry for the students, the staff and the families who have gained so much from their involvement over the years.

I've been grieving for my friend and for her family. A life wonderfully lived, now ended.

I've been grieving for a way of life lost because we moved to Italy.

But - I've decided it is time to start looking at the half full glass, time to get over myself and time to move on.

So here is what I am grateful for -

I am grateful that I am no longer under such incredible stress at work. I've actually been able to get off the migraine prevention tablets and have only had two migraines since finishing with the meds. I no longer live on antacids or antidepressants.

I am grateful my kids are making friends with children from so many different countries, cultures and ethnicities. I am glad they have a chance to learn new languages, with purpose. I am glad that they can experience a different way of learning and also learn to appreciate what they had at Athena.

I am grateful that Athena ever was - and so pleased to have ever had the chance to become involved. I'm also glad I was not at Athena when it closed - it was hard enough to cope with from here. It would have been even more personally devastating to have been there in that moment. I am glad I learned so much about myself from my involvement. I am glad that others may have learned lessons too that will allow the next Athena to flourish. I am grateful to hear from old students how Athena helped them and strengthened them. I am thrilled that my friend may get to do something way less stressful but just as rewarding.

I am grateful to have known and worked with Debbie. I am honoured to have called her a friend.

And I am especially grateful to have this new opportunity in life - a life in Italy. I have joined a local gym club and now go to Pilates classes once a week and a Latin dance workout class once a week. I have got back to quilting and I'm currently working to complete a hand appliqué quilt that I haven't touched in 15 years. I'm working on two other quilt designs. One quilt has been inspired by the art of an ex-student, and one inspired by my own art. I'm working on a painting.

I'm working on learning how to be me. I've spent much of my life valuing myself by how much others valued me. I have always been very good at giving of myself but lousy at admitting the need for help - or accepting it. I can't bear for other people to think that I am somehow not good enough or not able to cope.

I'm grateful that I am taking the time to learn to accept my faults and to stop beating myself over the head constantly with them. I still have a long way to go with this! I am learning how to put myself first sometimes. I'm still struggling with this too!!

I am grateful that I have the time to do things for me.

I am grateful that I have so much to looking forward to;

• exploring Italy and Europe
• visiting family and friends in Europe and the UK
• studying art history
• getting fitter and healthier
• developing my painting, quilting, book making
• learning new craft skills
• seeing Michelangelo's work up close!
• making new friends,

and most of all...

• having friends and family to stay

So - when are you coming to visit????

Skiing in the Italian Alps - How Did You Start 2009?

Through karate Barry has got to know a really lovely Italian gentleman - and I use the term in all its meanings - called Adriano. At the end of year karate dinner we also got to meet his wife Nicolleta. These people have been kindness itself to us and made life much, much easier than it might have been. At their insistence we went to visit them for a days skiing at a little ski field in the Valle Aosta.

With friend Anna visiting from London, we drove through fog for nearly two hours and then through a tunnel - and suddenly - there were the alps. Another half hour climb and we reached the 'Petite Prince Hotel' to a very warm welcome from Adriano, Nicolleta and their two dogs, Stella the Newfoundland and Archimede the mut - who were also holidaying with them. (You can do that in italy.)

The field was magical - at least it was today.

It was a complete circus getting boots, skis and poles for everyone - and we ALMOST abandoned the entire effort at this point - but not to be defeated by the usual Italian lack of organisational ability we persevered!

Caitlin, Anna and Fiona waiting - cheerfully at this stage - to get ski gear.

Finally fully outfitted we headed for the (baby) slopes.

It didn't take long at all for Anna, Fiona and Barry to rediscover their snow feet - a little longer for the kids to find their's for the first time... still within a few hours we were all flying down the slopes like we'd been doing it for years - rather than it being years since we'd last done it!

Caitlin tearing up the slopes.

Alan relaxing back into his skis. We hope you all had a great New Years Eve - and wish you all a totally magnificent 2009!
Buon Anno from la Bella Italia!

Another Place You Have to Visit - When You Visit Us...

Alan, Barry and I went sightseeing... and following some really good advice we headed off to find the little Lago D'Orta, just west of Lago Maggiore. The particular town we visited is called Orta San Giulio, on the east coast of the lake. This little village is soooo picturesque and so tiny and old. It is hard to believe that people really live here - it seems too quaint for real life.

This is the first view you get as you walk down into the town - visitors must park at the top! Some of the locals are allowed to drive down if they can park in their house/garage. You can see the town traffic light on the right of the picture.

And then as you wander on down the road you find your first church...

And then the roads start to really get narrow...

As you make your way along the little alleys you find interesting doorways at almost every turn.

The place is very popular with artisits and has a very good art gallery as well as many large sculptures by Arnaldo Pomodore on display around the town. The guy below seems to be enjoying the scene and the picture is truly gorgeous.

And the little island in the middle of the lake is also worth a visit - although we're leaving that for warmer weather.

Christmas - With a Kiwi/Italian/Irish/Greek/South African Spin

~The family with the addition of 'Lucky'~

We had Christmas - it wasn't at home and it wasn't the same but it was Christmas none the less...

~The cutest Christmas Pixie ever~

Things we missed

• family - we missed you Les, John, Karen, Iris, Rory and Tottie.
• old friends - and you all know who you are {{{{{big hugs}}}}}
• ham - at between 18 and 30 euro (NZ$45-75) a kilo we gave the big chunk on the bone a miss this year
• sunshine warmth and the thought of summer holiday
• traveling to Kinloch
• Santa - he's got a different name in Italy

Things we got instead

• a cuzzie! - one of my Irish cousins Stephanie was hee with us
• Greeks bearing gifts - Stephie's husband Yiorgos and her youngest daughter Haroula
• new friends - Penny (a kiwi woman I met in Milan) and her husband Clinton (from South Africa) with their two girls aged 6 and 8 joined us for Christmas dinner and stayed the night before heading to France on Boxing Day.
• SNOW! but not until Christmas night.
• Babbo Natale - ie Santa in Italian

~Steph, Yiorgos and the Christmas table~

Santa was very good to us all (regardless of Poste Italiana's efforts) and we are all now outfitted in trousers and jackets for the snow. Alan is getting a pistol for Airsoft which should arrive within the week and Caitlin got a new set of professional stilts by Voltige. The adults got a home theatre surround sound system that makes movie watching quite an experience - we watched a Pirates of the Caribbean marathon (Boxing Day) and I really jumped!

~Keep unwrapping - only six layers more to go~

It has been a peculiar Christmas. The city lights and Santa are much the same as at home except that the lights spell out 'Auguri' and Santa is called 'Babbo Natale'. The carols are the same and even if the words sound a little different the sentiment's the same.

This year I wasn't rushing around organising heaps of stuff at school and going brain crazy in the process - this year I was rushing around doctors and hospitals and worrying about Caitlin's health. Caitlin's appendicitis/peritonitis lead on to a bout of low blood pressure that saw her passing out with little or no warning resulting in a few bumps to her head. Blood tests revealed anemia and and unusual thyroid readings - leading to more blood tests - this time at the hospital (I'm not going over that story - suffice it to say that tantrums and tears work wonders in achieving service) and ultrasound scans of her throat area. We go back to the doctor next week to assess the results - however all looks mostly okay. Not sure about Caitlin but my stress levels are certainly more comfortable now.

Boxing Day was very quiet and so is today, as Caitlin went to the hotel with her new cousin Haroula on Christmas night and hasn't been seen since. The 'Greeks' are off to Foxtown (http://www.foxtown.ch/info.php?lingua=en&centro=mendrisio) again today and we'll see them later this afternoon. The shopping is just too good up there - especially now the sales are on.

~One pooped Christmas pooch~