Sunday, August 23, 2009

The FIC Road Trip – Day 9 Napoli and Melizzano

Three generations of women on a two-week tour of Italy – the adventure continues!

Made it down to breakfast by 9.30 after doing most of the re-packing. This was good timing as we got a plate of freshly cooked bacon just for us; also had a machine for freshly squeezed orange juice – yum.

Checked out, repacked the car and set the GPS for Melizzano – next stop on the magical mystery tour. At one stage the reading on the GPS was 123km to the next turn off. Passed the infamous Monte Cassino and stopped by the side of the road to take photographs. Sad to think so many died here.



As we got further along the road we realised we would pass only 40km from Napoli. It seemed so close and we had so much time on our hands – detour it was!!!

What an experience! Much like Wellington, you enter the city via the port. Not a good welcome. We had set the GPS for city centre and stopped near this in a public car park very near the old fort. We lunched in a great place across the road ‘Il Pomodorino’. Great food and service; a rare combination.



From the carpark bus tours of the city leave frequently. We caught one just leaving on a ‘hop-on hop-off’ tour of the historic centre. The commentary tried to dress it up but nothing could cover the fact that this is a dirty, sad looking city with few, if any, redeeming features. We can now say we’ve ticked that box – a return visit will NOT be on any future itineraries. The drive out was even more of an experience than the drive in and I was extremely glad to see the back of the place.

On we went to Melizzano, a tiny country town off the main road on the way from Roma to Bari via Benevento. All seemed to be okay until the GPS suddenly began to play up. After a struggling conversation by cell phone we met up with a son of the household from the bed and breakfast place we were to stay in. He came and found us at our car, showed us where to park and then walked us to the house.

The place was built in the 1400s and has been totally renovated by the current generation. We had a little rest then decided to head out for a wander but were intercepted by ‘Mama’ who suggested to her son that he show us the rest of the old house. We agreed and then he took us below ground...Incredible! There is another huge area underground, all carved out of rock. It is a constant 12°C and keeps the wine at a perfect temperature. You could see the old chimney where the salami was smoked and also the well. All this was used to store the oil from the huge press still to be seen upstairs.



We talked about how good Italian food and wine is. The son then offered us a tasting of their own wine. We agreed... this led to sharing the entire bottle with them and tasting their home cured prosciutto and then a little dolce – home made plum tart. The prosciutto was carved by ‘Papa’ from a large ham held in a wrought iron stand, resting on the olive press. All their preserves and wines are ‘biologica’. The fruit is all collected from the forest on the mountain. The wine is prepared according to the phases of the moon.

We wandered off around town and then met ‘Papa’ who insisted on taking us in for coffee – espresso Arabica – and a gelato for Caitlin. He explained that the local castle is still occupied by the Duco. One of the sons later told us that the Duco did not live there as he was frightened of the ghosts.



About 8.30 we went downstairs to the taverna for dinner. We were met by Emilio, the younger son, for conversational attempts. We sat at a table with the family and ate tomato, cucumber, olive oil and basil - then prosciutto, olives, pickled wild asparagus, homemade bread, five year old cheese, and fig tart accompanied by house red, then a sweet muscat style white and then Lemoncello Crema...and then finished with a little cafe. Every time Caitlin took her eyes off her plate ‘Mama’ put more prosciutto on it and signalled for her to eat up. Some friends of the sons’ came for dinner too. I took a photo of the group – Caitlin, Lucia, Gerardo, Emilio, Carlo, Amerio, Maria, and Mum. Amerio is in politics and works with the Mayor.



We had a ball!!! Great night and conversation got more free flowing and loud as the evening progressed. Great, great family evening.

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